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        我和華山有個約定

        2019-05-31 17:47 來源:華文作家網 作者:宋鴻雁
        摘要: 我和華山有個約定 宋鴻雁 每到節假日或寒暑假,打算帶孩子出去轉轉,征求孩子意見想去哪里?孩子總是回答去華山。 孩子小的時候,有次我和孩子一起翻看以前的老照片。孩子指著一張我頭戴紅帽子、身裹綠色軍大衣、站立山頂的照片,好奇地問:“媽媽,這是哪里

        我和華山有個約定

        宋鴻雁

        每到節假日或寒暑假,打算帶孩子出去轉轉,征求孩子意見想去哪里?孩子總是回答去華山。

        孩子小的時候,有次我和孩子一起翻看以前的老照片。孩子指著一張我頭戴紅帽子、身裹綠色軍大衣、站立山頂的照片,好奇地問:“媽媽,這是哪里呀?”我看了看照片,清晨的山頂,我正依靠在一棵銅枝鐵干的松樹上,脖子系著紅色平安絲帶,滿臉疲憊,嘴唇凍的發青。“這是華山!五岳中最險的山!媽媽爬過華山后,覺得其他的山都不叫山,只能稱做嶺。”至今我仍心有余悸。

        孩子一臉神往:“媽媽,咱們去爬華山吧!”“那你知道媽媽是怎樣爬華山的?”曾經夜爬華山的艱辛場景撲面而來。“那是媽媽大學二年級的五一節,和一幫同學來爬的。我們晚上頭戴頂燈,手抓鐵鏈爬華山。山路很陡,前一個人的腳就在后一個人的頭頂上,‘之’字拐的燈光在崇山峻嶺間蜿蜒,仿佛銀河落在了人間!整整爬了一晚上,趕天亮時爬到北峰頂觀看日出。山頂風很大,很冷,租了軍大衣穿著依然凍的瑟瑟發抖。日出真的很壯觀很美!讓人覺得不虛此行!天亮了,下山時,才看清晚上摸黑走的山道竟是奇險無比!兩側均是絕璧,媽媽又累又怕,雙腿又酸又疼,一手抓鐵鏈,一手拄登山杖,抖著酸疼的雙腿挪下了山!”想起曾經夜爬華山的不易,我不由的用手捏起了雙腿,好似雙腿還處在酸疼之中。

        孩子聽的更加來了興致,越發想去華山了,搖著我的胳膊撒嬌:“媽媽,帶我去爬華山吧!我好想去!”我斷然拒絕:“華山太險了!一個人一輩子爬一次足夠了!媽媽曾經發誓再不爬華山!這是媽媽和華山的約定!”

        可是戊戌年大暑節氣后的一個周六,經不住孩子三番五次請求,我終于違背自己的約定,下決心帶孩子冒酷暑登華山。

        現在爬華山可不是“自古華山一條道”了,我們選擇坐西峰索道纜車,凌空飛渡千山萬壑。說是千山萬壑,其實華山是由一塊完整碩大的花崗巖石體構成的。《山海經》記載:“太華之山,削成而四方,其高五千仞,其廣十里。”真的很難想像,這么連綿起伏、巨大的山體,其實是一個群峰競秀的整體。華山,就是這么神奇!

        從華山的群峰頂飛越,就像乘坐飛機往云層之上爬升一樣,心中提著一口氣,不敢呼也不敢喘;遇到陡直的升降,好像失去控制的電梯讓人緊張。可是索道轎箱外的奇險,又會讓人情不自禁驚呼、尖叫!正是上午巳時,盛夏的驕陽耀眼炙熱。四周刀劈斧鑿般的潔白山體,在無遮無掩的烈日的照耀下,白的晃眼,也許這就是“華山睛雪”的由來。

        很快到達華山西峰索道上站,我們沿登山石階來到巨靈足,這里是西峰與南峰的叉路口。在一塊巨石上,留有一方碩大的足印,據傳為巨靈神“造山川,出江河”所留下的足印。前往西峰,必經一條狹長陡峭的山脊——青龍背,人們真好似攀爬在巨大青龍的背脊上。

        面向西峰方向,左側是斧劈般的絕壁,右側是坡度陡峭的山嶺。山脊兩側豎有結實的鐵柱,以腕粗的鐵鏈相連續。膽小的人屏住呼吸,緊抓鐵鏈前行;膽大的年輕人,不抓鐵鏈,走在中間,總讓人擔心他會滑跌!腳下的山脊有一定坡度,并不能踩平實,就像走在傾斜的平衡木上。緊窄處,上山下山的人需錯身通行。華山之險,讓我們刻骨銘心!

        小心謹慎通過青龍背,迎面一方碩大石體,石壁滿布歷代石刻,頂端平坦,狀如蓮花,也許這就是西峰又名蓮花峰的由來吧!行不遠,有巨石懸于頭側,原來這就是大名鼎鼎的斧劈石!孩子聽著我講沉香“劈山救母”的美麗傳說,對沉香手中的神斧產生了濃厚的興趣。那巨大的石頭,被神斧劈開,斷面整齊利落,就那么懸在山頂,好像一陣風就能吹落。我拉著孩子快步通過斧劈石,總感覺巨石會從天而降!

        由西峰返回去往南峰,在青龍背上,斷崖側的云霧漸漸升騰上來,遠處的山峰松柏,隱入云霧中。升騰上來的霧氣,彌漫到了眼前,眼睛、面龐也被霧氣濕潤了。斷崖外的一切景致,已完全不見了蹤影,白霧茫茫,仙風陣陣,人猶如騰云駕霧一般。孩子伸手去抓云霧,可云霧哪里是能抓到的。我們何其有幸?竟然不期而遇“云霧華山”的奇景!

        經煉丹爐、孝子峰,云霧悄悄退隱,我們向南峰頂挺進。南峰蒼翠秀麗,沿途的華山松千姿百態,引人注目。華山迎客松生長于懸崖峭壁的石縫中,向懸崖一側伸出虬勁的枝干,就像好客的秦人伸出有力的大手歡迎遠道而來的客人。虬枝龍形的枝干上,是綠意盎然的松針,根根好像要刺破天穹。華山迎客松在藍天白云的映襯下,仿如碧玉雕琢而成,綠的耀眼,秀挺卓然!

        在南峰頂,孩子看到“天下絕無沉魚面,太華獨有落雁峰”的題刻,打趣我:“媽媽,你叫鴻雁,這里又叫落雁峰,真是和你有緣呢!快來這塊大石頭上落落腳,歇一歇!”“好啊!咱倆都爬累了,都歇一歇!”我為孩子的體貼欣慰!

        南峰頂有一石凹,小巧精致,內蓄淺水,池水清澈,恰如一方端硯,正待華山揮毫潑墨!原來我們已來到仰天池!想像中的仰天池應該很大很深,沒想到竟是如此小巧可人,好似華山的一滴清淚!好想掬一捧清凌凌的池水,好想嘗一嘗池水的清甜。華山如此珍愛他的眼淚,澇時不盈溢,旱時不枯竭,總是這么水汪汪地仰望天宇,濕潤潤地俯視大地。望著倒映在池水中的藍天白云,我和孩子也融化在池水中了。

        過金天宮,穿避詔崖,登南天門,來到令人膽寒的長空棧道附近。孩子一路上都在念叨要爬長空棧道,我搜腸刮肚地想阻止她的冒險念頭,可惜事與愿違,越阻止,越激起了孩子的好奇心,非爬長空棧道不可!孩子拉著我的手急切地奔到長空棧道上方升表臺,站在這方三面凌空、軒轅帝與群仙會聚的“聚仙臺”上,才發現長空棧道因故關閉了。我是長長舒了一口氣,孩子卻是失望至極!孩子不死心,拉著我抓著鐵鏈順著石道,又往下走了幾級石階,直到鐵鏈鎖閉的石門入口處。我倆手抓鐵鏈探身俯視,隱約可見絕壁上懸空的棧道。垂直的山壁上,幾株華山松挺直腰桿在生長,鐵鏈上拴的紅絲帶在迎風飛舞。不知眼花了,還是心理作用,總覺得棧道在風中輕輕晃動。

        深壑之外,是連綿高聳的群峰。孩子手指對面三個山頭,問我那是什么山?我告訴她:“你看,那三座山頭上各矗立有一方長方形巨石,就似三位著長袍的長者,所以號稱三公山。”三公山西北方向,有巨石酷似金龜,正在朝拜三公。三公山之東,有三鳳山相陪伴。正值正午未時,三公山三鳳山上空風云際會,不大一會兒功夫,烏云濃霧已壓至峰頂。

        我和孩子抓緊時間往東峰趕,經紫氣臺、二仙坎,攀爬一道石梁前往東峰山門。此時飄來小雨點,我們顧不得腳下濕滑加快了腳步。經鷂子翻身,孩子想要征服天險的念頭依然強烈,一心想翻鷂子翻身,后因人多需排隊等候而暫時放棄。東峰又叫朝陽峰,朝陽臺是觀日出的勝地。我倆左轉攀爬朝陽臺,雨漸漸大起來。至臺頂,方舉目四顧,黃豆大小的密集雨點劈頭蓋臉砸下。朝陽臺上沒有看到太陽,卻遭遇暴雨,我們狼狽撤離朝陽臺。

        往西可去往中峰,往南可順原路返回,因暴雨如注,只得放棄攀爬中峰。順原路經鷂子翻身,孩子仍念念不忘:“媽媽,這會兒大暴雨,肯定沒人排隊,咱們去翻鷂子翻身!”聽了孩子“初生牛犢不畏虎”的話,我不由哈哈大笑:“小傻瓜!這么大的暴雨,有誰去翻鷂子翻身呢?不要命啦?”在鷂子翻身入口處,孩子還是萬般眷戀地探身查看,當看到還未來得及撤離的人員身系保險繩懸掛在峭壁上,就像風雨中掉著蛛絲的蜘蛛,被風雨襲擊的無處藏身、進退兩難,方才知道了害怕。

        虧得我們準備充分,帶有雨傘、雨衣、防雨鞋套。山頂風狂雨暴,雨傘基本沒有遮蔽作用。即便穿著雨衣,腳蹬防雨鞋套,我和孩子也被澆成了“落湯雞”。直到坐上下行纜車,我倆才將懸著的一顆心放下。轎廂外,雨幕如瀑,雨霧籠罩了整個華山。華山尊嚴峻極、嵯峨崢嶸的一面,被雨霧遮掩了,有了朦朧秀麗的美。

        我雖然違背約定,二上華山,但是華山還是給了我驚險與驚喜,它依然那么險!那么美!讓我終生難忘!華山,只有登臨者,才能切身體會它的 “奇、險、峻、秀”;大凡人世上的事情,只有經歷了,才能體會世事的艱辛與不易。難怪偉人曾云:“無限風光在險峰!”

                      (201812月于長安龍首原)

         

        宋鴻雁:青年作家。筆名鴻雁,漢族,畢業于蘭州大學醫學院,現供職于西安市某政府機關。中國散文學會會員、三秦文化研究會會員、陜西省青年文學會會員、西安市作家協會會員。曾先后在《中國文化報》《西北軍事文學》《自學考試報》《文化藝術報》《陜西工人報》《三秦都市報》《西安日報》《西安晚報》《陽光報》等國內刊物發表小說、散文、詩歌等。

         

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